SIEM REAP

SIEM REAP BACKGROUND

The name Siem Reap means ‘Siamese Defeated’. Siem Reap was a little more than a village when the first French explorers re-discovered Angkor in 19th century.

The Siem Reap province is the cradle of Angkorian civilization and it is a province that offers plenty of opportunity to tourists enthralled by the cultural patrimony. Siem Reap Angkor is the most attractive landmark in Cambodia in terms of cultural tourism in Southeast Asia.

Siem Reap is a fastest growing town in Cambodia but it is still a safe, friendly, and pleasant place. There is an endless choice of places to stay or dine, and a host of possible activities awaiting the visitors. Often missed are the many opportunities to experience traditional Cambodia : boat trips on the great Tonle Sap Lake to the fishing villages and the Prek Toal bird sanctuary, craft shops ad silk farms, road tours through rice-paddy countryside to distant temples and beyond.

Gateway to the temples of Angkor

Siem Reap Town serves as the gateway to the millennium-old temple ruins of the Khmer Empire. Designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, the Angkor Archaeological Park encompasses dozens of temple ruins including Bayon, Banteay Srey and the legendary Angkor Wat whose artistic and archaeological significance and visual impact put it in a class with the Pyramids, Machu Pichu and the Taj Mahal. Unlike many other world class monuments, the ruins of Angkor are as yet unspoiled by over-development. This will not be true in a couple of years. Though the major temples are relatively well touristed these days, it is still possible get away from the crowds, to explore the area and discover Angkor.

Temple of Angkor

As the religious, cultural, and administrative center of a prosperous and sophisticated kingdom, Angkor grew to be one of the world’s largest cities in the late 12th century (when it was known as Angkor Thom), comprising an estimated one million residents. Angkor’s kings erected magnificent temple complexes and constructed an intricate network of canals, moats, and Barays (reservoirs). Today Angkor is recognized as one of the world’s most valuable cultural sites and as a national symbol of Cambodia. In 1992 Angkor was designated a World Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). The site covers some 400 sq km (200 sq mi).

Today Angkor is recognized as one of the world’s most valuable cultural sites.

The name Angkor is derived from the Sanskrit word nagara (meaning “city”) and is pronounced Nokor or Ongkor in Khmer and Angkor in English. The state temple of the first city of Angkor was Phnom Bakheng, a temple on a hill whose structure symbolizes the mountain that stands at the center of the world according to Hindu cosmology. Successive kings built temples devoted to various Hindu and Buddhist deities, and, as Angkor expanded, new population centers grew up around the temples that served as social, economic, religious, and political centers. Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm, Preah Khan, and the temples within Angkor Thom are the main temple complexes at Angkor. To the north, east, and west of these central structures lie three vast Barays, linked by canals throughout the central zone. The temples and Barays of this central area make up Angkor National Park, which was established in 1925 by the French, who had administrative jurisdiction over Cambodia at that time. The park includes more than 40 monuments open to visitors.

You can not truly say you have been to Siem Reap until you've checked these 10 attractions beside Angkor temples.

Inside Angkor Archeological Park

Temples http://theangkorguide.com

Bayon (giant faces) -

Ta Prohm (trees/Tomb Raider movie)

Angkor Watt (most famous and most crowded)-

Elephant wall and King Lepar
**to see any of the above you will enter the SouthGate, Angkor Thom (walled city that contains the above temples).

Banteay Srei (small, but detailed/well preserved) comes with a drive out to the country side (see wooden houses, rice paddies, etc.), a whole day, but combined with other temples. Stop along the way, and purchase sugar cane candy from the locals.

Phnom Bakheng

Inside Siem Reap city

Angkor National Museum

Cambodia Cultural Village

War Museum : The war museum is located outside - in an open field. You can walk freely or have a guide. I recommend the guide. He will walk through each exhibit and explain how the machine/weapon was used against the Cambodian people, describing the horrifying terrors of the Khmer Rouge and the Pol Pot Regime. The mine display was especially memorable to me. My husband enjoyed the ability to freely handle the machine guns and jumping into the tanks on display. Yes, this is a museum - but the equipment is open for contact (which suprised us very much). It's outside - and hot, so bring sunscreen and bug repellant.

Artisan D'Angkor : A wood and stone carving workshop sponsored by the UN located in the middle of Siem Reap. Tour was not as good as the silk farm - although this tour is more popular because it's in the city. You will see children making stone carvings. Good place to buy stone carvings vs. off the street as it supports the program. Bring your credit card. Plan ahead and make sure you have room in your suitcase. The store will provide you a certificate of "unauthenticity" in the event custom stop you for taking a stone carving.

Les Chantiers Ecoles Silk Farm (Artisians d'Angkor) : Located 16KM west of Siem Reap - an amazing hand silk production tour. A must do. It's almost like going back in time - where you will see the silk worms being harvested, silk spun, dyed, and weaved. This program is sponsored by the UN to teach young women a craft as a means of livelihood. Bring your credit card and buy 100% handmade silk items to support the program. Small silk items start from $5 - and up to $100 plus for some items. The best silk I've ever seen in the world.

Markets : There are 2 major markets: a) Central and b) Old Market (Psar Chaa). Central Market does not attract as many tourists so it's about 50% cheaper. It's also much cleaner, as it does not have a major food market like the Old Market does where small business owners are selling their veggies, meats, and household items. Not much to buy unless you are interested in Thai silk pillow cases ($1.50 USD); average quality silk scarves ($1.50); tourist shirts with Gap labels ($1.00 USD - quality of shirt was very high, I think it is Gap); NorthFace backpacks (not sure if it's real); and Cambodian Wedding Music CD ($3.00).

Concert at Children Hospital

Outside of Angkor Archelogical Park

Floating Village

Beng Melea

Phnom Kulen

Koh Ker

Top ten attractions in Siem Reap which most of the tourists should check and see are

1. Take a boat cruise on the lake. The Tonle Sap lake is home to an enormous diversity of wildlife, as well as a number of stilt villages where you can witness traditional ways of life. Cambodia's Great Lake, the Boeung Tonle Sap (Tonle Sap Lake,) is the most prominent feature on the map of Cambodia - a huge dumbbell-shaped body of water stretching across the northwest section of the country. In the wet season, the Tonle Sap Lake is one of the largest freshwater lakes in Asia, swelling to an expansive 12,000 km2. During the dry half of the year the Lake shrinks to as small as 2500 km2, draining into the Tonle Sap River, which meanders southeast, eventually merging with the Mekong River at the 'chaktomuk' confluence of rivers opposite Phnom Penh.

2. Enjoy a traditional dance performance Dance is an integral part of Khmer culture, combining Apsara dances, folk dances and shadow puppetry. Several restaurants and hotels host evening performances at varying prices, usually accompanying a meal. No visit to Cambodia is complete without attending at least one traditional Khmer dance performance, often referred to as 'Apsara Dance' after one of the most popular Classical dance pieces. Traditional Khmer dance is better described as 'dance-drama' in that the dances are not merely dance but are also meant to convey a story or message.

3. Visit the Angkor National Museum Opened in Siem Reap promises eight chronologically ordered galleries of Angkorian-era artifacts and multi-media presentations of Angkorian history and culture. The Museum had just opened its doors and was not quite completed at time of printing, but should be very soon. Admissions price: US$12 (for foreigners). $2 for a camera.

4. Visit the local markets No trip to Siem Reap would be complete without a visit to one of the traditional markets, though they can be a little cramped and hot in the middle of the day. Don't miss the Night Market too, which features over 100 outlets.

5. Visit the silk farm located just 16km out of town, here you can witness the entire silk creation process from start to finish. Take a tour of the workshop and stop at the retail shop to buy some souvenirs.

6. Attend Dr Beatocello's concert Swiss doctor Beat Richner plays Bach on his cello every Friday and Saturday evening at 7:15 at Jayavarman VII Hospital, been to Siem Reap until you've to provide support to the three children's hospitals that he runs - donations of blood and money are most welcome. Performances are held at the Jayavarman VII Hospital, located on the road to Angkor Wat in Siem Reap. Dr. Richner provides an entertaining and worthy Saturday evening.

Website: www.beatocello.com

7. Learn to cook Khmer food While not as famous as that from neighboring Thailand and Vietnam, Khmer cuisine employs subtle blends of ingredients and spices to give a unique favor. A few restaurants organize cooking classes, usually taking a whole day. The good people at The Ox Cart Restaurant at The River Garden Guesthouse are offering culinary tours and cooking courses focusing, of course, on local fare. Culinary tours include a tour of a local market(s) with an introduction to local culinary culture, foods and ingredients, cooking equipment, etc. followed by cooking classes at the restaurant. Call 063-963400 for schedule.

8. Visit Cambodian Cultural Village, a unique, sprawling new cultural attraction in Siem Reap, intended to introduce the visitor to Cambodian culture and history. Wax museum with scenes and figures from history. Fascinating 1/20th scale models of sites such as Phsar Thmey and the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh and the hills and temples of Oudong. Full scale models of a variety of Cambodian architectural types, including different styles of huts and homes, hill tribe houses, pagoda and mosque. Live shows, traditional dance performances and music. Traditional Khmer wedding show twice per day.

9. See the temples from the air don’t limit yourself to experiencing the temples from ground level, check out the view from a balloon tethered 180 meters above ground. Or, if you're feeling fuse, take a helicopter ride and be the envy of all your friends. Specialized tours, aerial photography, charter services. Multiple aircraft. Conveniently located next to the big, yellow balloon about 1km from Angkor Wat on the road from the airport to Angkor Wat. Price of helicopter begin from 90 USD per person and Balloon is 15 USD per person.

10. Exploring the countryside in Cambodia, The vast majority of Cambodians live and work in the rural countryside and a countryside tour or even a day trip to a remote temple ruin can provide a glimpse of ‘real Cambodia’ - picturesque, bucolic scenery, rice paddies and water buffalos, countryside pagodas and little villages filled with traditional stilted houses... And there are a number of ways to see it: by 4WD or dirtbikes, ATVs, bicycle, ox cart and more.

Sovann Eath will manage and reserve all of these things for you. It is good to book in advance at less one week or let me on the day of your interest.

CAMBODIA

Introduction to Cambodia

Cambodia or Kampuchea, republic in South East Asia, bordered on the north-east by Laos, on the east and south-east by Vietnam, on the south-west by the Gulf of Thailand, and on the west and north-west by Thailand. Cambodia covers a total area of 181,035 sq km (69,898 sq mi). The capital and largest city of Cambodia is Phnom Penh.

The Kingdom of Cambodia is one of the world's newest and most exciting travel Southeast Asia destinations. After years of isolation, Cambodia opened to tourists in the mid-1990s and tourists numbers have increased every year since - last year the country seeing near two million tourists. Cambodia’s primary tourist destinations - Angkor Wat and the other temples of Angkor near Siem Reap, the cultural attractions in the capital Phnom Penh, and the beaches of Sihanoukville - offer plenty of accommodations, restaurants and other tourist services. Other destinations such as the hill tribe areas of Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri, the remote temples of Preah Vihear and Banteay Chhmar, and quaint provincial capitals such as Battambang and Kampot, are just now being discovered by travelers, and all offer unique glimpses of ‘unspoiled’ Cambodia. There’s a magic about Cambodia that casts a spell on many who visit this charming yet confounding kingdom. Ascend to the realm of the gods at the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat, a spectacular fusion of symbolism, symmetry and spirituality. Descend into the hell of Tuol Sleng and come face to face with the Khmer Rouge and its killing machine. Welcome to the conundrum that is Cambodia: a country with a history both inspiring and depressing, an intoxicating place where the future is waiting to be shaped.

Cambodia is a land of superlatives. The ancient temples of Angkor Wat, Bayon and other ruins of the Khmer Empire rank amongst the world's grandest and most magnificent World Heritage Sites - easily in a class with Machu Picchu, the Pyramids of Egypt and Teotihuacan. But this magnificence stands in shocking contrast to the Killing Fields, Toul Sleng Genocide Museum and other remnants of Cambodia's more recent history - a time when Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge regime of the late 1970s committed some of the most horrifying atrocities of the 20th century. Yet, the Khmer people, who make up more than 95% of modern Cambodia's population, impress visitors as some of the friendliest, 'happiest' (sabai), and most gentle people they have ever met. The ubiquitous Khmer smile is legendary, as is traditional Khmer hospitality and openness. Cambodia is truly a land of light and dark, of wonder and of tragedy - awe-inspiring, heart wrenching and completely unique.

Cambodia is like the teen starlet who has just been discovered by an adoring public: everyone wants something from her but not everyone wants what is best for her. The government, long shunned by international big business, is keen to benefit from all these newfound opportunities. Contracts are being signed off like autographs and there are concerns for the long-term interests of the country.

Tourism has brought many benefits to Cambodia: it provides opportunity and employment for a new generation of Khmers, has helped to spark a rebirth of the traditional arts, and has given the country a renewed sense of pride and optimism as it recovers from the dark decades of war and genocide. However, not all tourism has been good for the country and there is the dark side of sex tourism, human exploitation and a casino culture. Cambodia is in a great position to benefit from the mistakes of other countries in the region and follow a sustainable road to tourism development. However, it may be that the government is more focused on the short-term gain that megabucks investments can provide. Can Cambodia be all things to all visitors? So far, so good, but a new era is about to begin and the beaches are the next battleground.

There are two faces to Cambodia: one shiny and happy, the other dark and complex. For every illegal eviction of city dwellers or land grab by a general, there will be a new NGO school offering better education, or a new clean-water initiative to improve the lives of the average villager. Such is the yin and yang of Cambodia, a country that inspires and confounds. Like an onion, the more layers you unravel, the more it makes you want to cry, but these are spontaneous tears, sometimes of sorrow, sometimes of joy.

Despite having the eighth wonder of the world in its backyard, Cambodia’s greatest treasure is its people. The Khmers have been to hell and back, struggling through years of bloodshed, poverty and political instability. Thanks to an unbreakable spirit and infectious optimism, they have prevailed with their smiles intact; no visitor comes away from Cambodia without a measure of admiration and affection for the inhabitants of this enigmatic kingdom.

Cambodia: beaches as beautiful as Thailand but without the tourist tide; wilds as remote as Laos but even less explored; cuisine as subtle as Vietnam but yet to be discovered; and temples that leave Burma and Indonesia in the shade. This is the heart of Southeast Asia, with everything the region has to offer packed into one bite-sized country. If you were only planning to spend a week in Cambodia, it’s time to think again.

Population
Cambodia has a population of 14,241,640 (2008 estimate). The overall population density is some 81 people per sq km (209 per sq mi). Average life expectancy at birth in 2008 was 59.6 years for men and 63.8 years for women. At least 15 per cent of the population died between 1975 and 1979 as a result of Khmer Rouge policies.

Principle cities
The capital, Phnom Penh, with a population of 1,157,000 (2003 estimate), is situated at the junction of the Mekong and Sab rivers. Other major cities are Battambang, population 171,382 (2002), Kompong Cham (population, 1987, 33,000), and Kampot (population, 1987, 15,000). The major port is Kompong Som (population, 1990, 75,000), formerly Sihanoukville, on the Gulf of Thailand. During the late 1970s the larger cities were depopulated, with residents fleeing or being sent to rural areas.

Religion
Theravada (Hinayana) Buddhism is the dominant religion and is adhered to by about 90 per cent of the population. Hinduism has had an important cultural and historical influence. Other religions include Roman Catholicism, Islam, and Mahayana Buddhism; the mountain tribes are animists.

Cambodian Visas

Passport/visa requirements: In order to visit Cambodia, a visa is required for most nationalities. A passport with at least six month validity is required. Philippine and Malaysian nationals do not require tourist visas for a stay up to 21 and 30 days respectively. Singaporean nationality is also exempt from the usual visa requirement. Visa on arrival is not permitted for holders of the following passports: Afghanistan; Algeria; Bangladesh; Iran; Iraq; Pakistan; Saudi Arabia; Sri Lanka; and Sudan. Holders of these passports must obtain a Cambodian visa before arriving in the country. Holders of these passports are also required to hold a sponsor letter or invitation from a company / organization / travel agent, and you are also advised to hold a valid return ticket.
Availability: It is very easy to travel to Cambodia. Cambodian visas are available to most nationalities on arrival at all international airports in Cambodia (Phnom Penh and Siem Reap), at overseas Cambodian embassies , at most international border crossing checkpoints in Cambodia, and through the online E-Visa procedure.
Issuance requirements and price: Issuance of a visa on arrival at the airports and international border crossings is relatively quick and easy, taking about 20-30 minutes. One 4x6 photo is required.
30-day tourist visa (Type ‘T’): US$20
Tourist visas can be extended for one month, but only one time.
30-day business visa (Type ‘E’): US$25
Business visas can be renewed indefinitely, one month, three months, six months or one year at a time.
Diplomatic, Official, Courtesy, and Special (Cambodian) visas are issued free of charge.
At overland international border checkpoints with Thailand, visa prices are often set in Thai baht making them significantly more expensive than the official visa price in US dollars. See below.

E-Visa: The Cambodian Ministry of Foreign Affairs now offers 'e-visa' - visas available online through the Ministry's website. Scan of passport and passport size photo required. Payment by credit card. US$25 for a 30 day visa (three month validity.) Processing time: 3 days. Issued by email and print from from your computer. The Ministry recently announced that e-visa entry points now include Siem Reap International Airport, Phnom Penh International Airport, the Bavet/Moc Bai border crossing, the Poipet/Aranyaprathet border crossing and the Koh Kong/Had Lek border crossing. To order an E-visa see the following website: http://www.mfaic.gov.kh/e-visa/vindex.aspx

E-Visa NEWS/WARNING - In March13, 2009 the Ministry of Foreign Affairs issued a warning about certain websites selling fraudulent e-Visas. Do not purchase e-Visas through any website other that the official Cambodian Ministry of Foreign Affairs Website.

E-Visa NEWS - Getting an e-visa is easy, requiring only 5 minutes or so, when the website is working. Unfortunately the website seems to go down with some regularity, often for days at a time. If you really need an e-visa and the site is down, just keep trying. It does seem to come back on line after a while.

Visa Renewal: Renew visas through a travel agent or the ‘Immigration Department’ on Confederation de Russie (‘Airport Road’), located opposite Phnom Penh International Airport. Tel: 012-581558. Fax: 023-890380. E-mail: visa_info@online.com.kh. Renew Diplomatic, Courtesy and Official visas at the Consular section of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.


Visas at Overland Border Crossings
Border crossing with Laos: Border policies are not stable. Travelers report that Cambodian visas are available at the border but Laotian visas are not available at the border.

Border crossings with Vietnam: Cambodian visas are available at the Moc Bai/Bavet and 'Chau Doc' border crossings. There is conflicting information about the availability of Cambodian visas at Prek Chak. Vietnamese visas are not available at any overland border crossing.

Border crossings with Thailand: Cambodian visas and 30-day Thai transit visas are available at all Thai/Cambodian border crossings. Thai transit visas are free of charge. Other types of Thai visas are not available.

AIRPORT TAX

International flight: Each foreigner has to pay 25 USD, and each Khmer person has to pay 18 USD at Phnom Penh International Airport of Siem Reap International Airport.
Additionally, children below the age of 12 have to pay 13 USD, children under the age of 2 do not need to pay tax at any airport.
Domestic flight: Each foreigner has to pay 6 USD, and each Khmer have to pay 5 USD at Phnom Penh International Airport of Siem Reap International Airport.

PHNOM PENH

Introduction to Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh, capital city of Cambodia (Kampuchea), at the junction of the Mekong and Sab rivers, in the southern part of the country. The city was badly damaged and its population greatly reduced during civil war in the mid-1970s, but rebuilding began in the 1980s. The city had traditionally been a commercial centre for the Mekong Valley with facilities for transport by air, rail, river, and road. It is a major port, with an outlet to the South China Sea through the Mekong Delta in Vietnam. Principal manufactured goods have included textiles, processed food, and beverages. Known as a picturesque Asian city with an enduring French colonial atmosphere, Phnom Penh has been home to a number of cultural and educational institutions, most of which were closed in 1975 when the city fell to the Khmer Rouge. The Museum of the Buddhist Institute featured a collection of artifacts of the Khmer civilization, and the National Museum of Phnom Penh housed a collection of antiquities dating from the 6th century. Among the institutions of higher education in the city were the University of Phnom Penh (1960), the Buddhist University (1954), the University of Fine Arts (1965), and the University of Agricultural Sciences (1965). Historical landmarks include palaces of former rulers of Cambodia and Buddhist temples.

The first permanent settlement here was probably established in the late 14th century by the Khmers, and in 1434 it displaced Angkor Thom as the Khmer capital. Phnom Penh was abandoned and reoccupied several times before it became Cambodia's capital in 1865. In the mid-1970s warfare in Cambodia led to social upheaval in the city; for a time almost all its more than 1 million inhabitants were forced to evacuate Phnom Penh and move to the countryside as agricultural workers, and a sizeable proportion of the city’s educated population were executed. The city was resettled during the 1980s, and some of its cultural and educational institutions reopened. Population 1,157,000 (2003 estimate).

What to see in Phnom Penh

Royal Palace

Firstly the Royal Palace was erected in the reign of King Ponhea Yat (1434) and secondly it was erected in the reign of King Norodom (1866). The Royal Palace was formerly called “Preah Borom Reach Veang Chatomouk Mongkul” that means it was conveniently located at the confluence of four rivers (The Upper Mekong, The Lower Mekong, The Tonle Bassak and The Tonle Sap”. The Royal Palace is 402 meters, and its complex is surrounded by a high pagoda-styled compound decorated with the boundary strings.

The Royal Palace is a royal residence now where His Majesty, the King of Cambodia, and the royal families live. In a common word, it is like a small town of royal dynasties. The Royal Palace is regarded as the symbol of the whole nation, and all the pavilions are adorned and painted with yellow and white colors. The yellow represents Buddhism and the white represents Brahmanism.

Silver Pagoda was erected in the reign of King Norodom in 1892 and inaugurated in 1903. King Norodom’s successor, King Sisowat, who was his younger brother, kept reigning and decorating the inner wall. And then, Prince Norodom Sihanouk restored it in 1962.

National Museum

The Cambodian-style building was built in 1917 and inaugurated in 1920. It is located to the north of the royal palace. The National Museum can enable you to be more aware of Khmer cultural and historical value and literature through frescoes depicted on the theme of the Ramayana story. Khmer art has been shown since ancient times. A rich collection of original Khmer art features sculptures and statues made of jade, marble, silver, bronze, brass, copper, clay, wood, bamboo, metal, steel, etc. The ancient building contains articles, ceramic ware, earthenware, flatware, pottery, woodwork, silverware, etc.

Wat Phnom is a symbol of the of the capital and the place from which Phnom Penh derives its name. There is a busy park around the slopes of the hill that hosts an array of the street sellers catering to the needs of tourists, and to the constant stream of local pilgrims trekking to see the hill's Vihara, shrines and fortune tellers.

Locals consider the hill of Penh to be a place of good fortune and go there to pray for good luck. However, it is considered very unlucky for lovers or married couples to visit Wat Phnom together. Elephant rides available. The legend of the founding of Wat Phnom is tied to the beginnings of Phnom Penh.

Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)

$2.00 - Open everyday, including holidays, 8AM-5PM - Closed for lunch)

Prior to 1975, Toul Sleng was a high school - a set of classroom buildings in a walled compound. When the Khmer Rouge came to power in 1975 they converted into the S-21 prison and interrogation facility, administered by Kaing Guek Eav, a.k.a. ‘Duch,’ who is currently on trial for his actions at S-21. Inmates at the prison were held in tiny brick cubicles and systematically tortured, sometimes over a period of months, to extract the desired ‘confessions,’ after which the victim was inevitably executed at the killing field of Choeung Ek just outside the city.

S-21 processed over 17,000 people, less than a score of whom survived. The Tuol Sleng compound now serves as a museum, a memorial and a testament to the madness of the Khmer Rouge regime. Much has been left in the state it was in when the Khmer Rouge abandoned it in January 1979. The prison kept extensive records, leaving thousands of photos of their victims, many of which are on display. Paintings of torture at the prison by Vann Nath, a survivor of Toul Sleng, are also exhibited. For more on the S-21 check out Chandler’s book, ‘Voices from S-21.

Choeung Ek Memorial (The Killing Fields)

Many of the Cambodians who perished under the Khmer Rouge regime ended up dumped in one of the dozens of ‘killing fields’ that can be found scattered across the country. The killing fields were essentially ad hoc places of execution and dumping grounds for dead bodies during the Khmer Rouge regime (1975-1979.) After the Khmer Rouge regime, memorials were set up at many of the sites, some containing the bones and remnants of victims gather from the area. Prior to 1975, the Choeung Ek just outside Phnom Penh was a orchard and a Chinese cemetery. But during the Khmer Rouge regime the area became one of the infamous killing fields. This particular killing field is the site of the brutal executions of more than 17,000 men, women and children, most of whom had first suffered through interrogation, torture and deprivation in the S-21 Prison (now the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum) in Phnom Penh.

The Choeung Ek Memorial is now a group of mass graves, killing areas and a memorial stupa containing thousands of human skulls and long bones. The memorial is about a 20-40 minute drive from the center of Phnom Penh. Guided tours through the area are available and reasonably priced multi-lingual guides are available at the site. There is also a small souvenir shop as well. For sake of historical context, combine your trip to Choeung Ek with a visit to Toul Sleng Genocide Museum (the former S-21 Prison) in Phnom Penh. Also see David Chandler’s book, ‘Voices of S-21’ for the most systematic and complete account to date of the history and operation of the S-21 Prison.